A commercial yabby pond
Commercial yabby pond

Commercial yabby pond

Semi-intensive commercial yabby farming produces quantities of yabbies at far higher densities than occurs naturally in the wild. Ponds are built to specifications that suit the yabbies, shelter is added and food is supplied. All this is inducive to growing large numbers of yabbies quickly.

Now the yabby Cherax destructor is one of the few species on this planet that is increasing its area of domination. I know you can google it and the International Union for the Conservation of Nature Red List shows the species as vulnerable but that’s not the case. Yabbies are a robust species with an instinct to wander and distribute. They are a migrating species and can migrate on mass. It’s extremely easy and common at night when you get a bit of rain to have yabbies leave the pond they are in and go a wondering. They can travel long distances overland and survive for days in wet grass. The larger the yabbies and the higher the density of yabbies in your pond, the greater the chances of wondering occurring.

Perimeter fencing of your ponds is essential for semi intensive production of yabbies. There are a number of choices for perimeter fencing (you can see more options in The Commercial Yabby Farmer book) but this article is on the most expensive, but also the most permanent option.

METAL FENCING

Metal fencing is one of the most expensive options, but one of the easiest to erect and lasts the longest with the least maintenance over the years. This article is based on fencing I’m installing at “Yabby Dabba Doo” Yabby Farm, Port Stephens, NSW. http://www.yabbydabbadoo.com/

This property adjoins the state forest that is subject to bushfire so the metal fencing has the added benefit being fire proof compared to say “silt stop barrier” fences.

Materials:

0.48mm Trimdek or equivalent roofing sheets

40 mm x 0.55 mm Top Hat Battens

Hex head Screws

 

Equipment:

Battery drill

Battery grinder

Sledge Hammer

String Line

Full 6 metre sheet of trimdeck are purchased and just cut in half down the middle with a hand grinder. This gives you two sheets roughly 400 mm wide. Top hat battens are cut at 750 mm lengths.

Cut the top hats battens up wiith a grinder

Cut the top hats battens up with a grinder

Cut into 750 mm lengths

Cut into 750 mm lengths

Just use a string line to work out where the fence is going

Just use a string line to work out where the fence is going

Hammer in the battens at 2 m intervals -it doesn’t matter if the top gets bent or deformed from the hammering.

Hammer in the battens at 2 m intervals -it doesn’t matter if the top gets bent or deformed from the hammering.

Overlap sheets

Overlap sheets

Affix the sheets to the battens with hex head screws

Affix the sheets to the battens with hex head screws

Sheets affixed to battern

Sheets affixed to battern

When you need to go around a corner - affix one end

When you need to go around a corner – affix one end

Cut the ridges with your grinder and bend

Cut the ridges with your grinder and bend

Cover the cut corner with a top hat batten (Usually a shorter one)

Cover the cut corner with a top hat batten (Usually a shorter one)

Just bend sheets around corners

Just bend sheets around corners

Get some soil or gravel and add a little around the base of the tine to fill any gaps under it

Get some soil or gravel and add a little around the base of the tine to fill any gaps under it

Soil or gravel along the base of the metal also helps stabilize the fence

Soil or gravel along the base of the metal also helps stabilize the fence

Cheers

Rob